Common beginner surfing mistakes and how to avoid them ?

There is a considerable gap between the surf dream and the reality of first attempts in the ocean. On one side, the collective imagination fueled by movies and social media: elegant surfers gliding on perfect waves at sunset. On the other, the raw truth of early sessions: repeated falls, difficulty paddling, and growing frustration.

This gap between expectation and reality explains why so many beginners quit prematurely. After a few tough sessions, many store their board in the garage forever. It's a shame, because with a few adjustments, progress could have been much faster and more enjoyable.

Avoiding classic mistakes is not just a matter of pride — it's the key to solid progress and effective learning. Each corrected mistake represents a significant gain in time and energy, turning frustrating sessions into rewarding experiences.

Discover in this article the pitfalls awaiting novice surfers and, above all, how to avoid them to accelerate your learning. From inappropriate equipment to fundamental technical errors, including behaviors to avoid in the water.

Equipment mistakes that sabotage your learning

Choosing a board unsuitable for your level

The first mistake, perhaps the most common, concerns the board choice. Many fall for the "myth of the small board" - the idea that learning on a shortboard allows faster progress. Nothing could be further from the truth. 🌊

To start effectively, prioritize a board with:

• Sufficient volume: minimum 50-60 liters for an adult
• Comfortable length: between 7'6" and 9' (about 2m30 to 2m70)
• Width: at least 55 cm for stability

How to recognize a good beginner board? Look for foam (softboard) models, with a rounded outline and moderate rocker. These features provide stability and buoyancy, essential for catching your first waves. Moreover, renting is often preferable to buying during the first months of practice.Discover our complete guide to choosing your first surfboard.

Neglecting the wetsuit suited to conditions

Thermal comfort is not a luxury, but a necessity for learning. A shivering surfer cannot focus on technique. Yet, many beginners underestimate the importance of a suitable wetsuit.

The table below will guide you to the appropriate thickness:

Beyond the wetsuit, some accessories are often overlooked but can transform your experience: quality wax stick, leash suited to your board, and waterproof sunscreen. These details seem minor, but make all the difference between a pleasant session and a ordeal. Consult our guide to essential surf accessories.

Technical errors in prone position

Poor placement on the board

Before even thinking about standing up, the prone position deserves your full attention. A common mistake? Positioning too far back or too far forward on the board.

The optimal position varies by body type, but a few principles are universal. Your sternum must be aligned with the center of the board (sweet spot). Your feet, slightly apart and raised, avoid braking your progress. Elbows are placed close to the body to optimize your paddle.

Eye direction is another frequent mistake. Beginners often fixate on their hands or the immediate front of the board. However, to maintain balance and anticipate ocean movements, your gaze should look toward the horizon or the direction you want to take. This habit, hard to acquire, radically improves your stability.

Paddling errors that exhaust you

The paddling technique is often the Achilles' heel of beginner surfers. Inefficient paddling exhausts you prematurely and significantly reduces your chances of catching waves. The problem? Most novices try to paddle with arms alone, neglecting engagement of the upper body.

To develop effective paddling, follow these fundamental principles:

• Engage your shoulders, not just your arms
• Alternate arms in a motion similar to crawl
• Keep your head slightly raised but not too high

Energy economy becomes crucial during long sessions. Learn to identify moments when paddling is necessary and when you can rest. Between wave sets, stay in sitting position to recover. A little-known tip? Paddle more with slightly cupped hands, like small paddles, rather than flat.

Take-off pitfalls (transition to standing position)

Too late push timing

One of the major obstacles for beginners is the famous "timing" - that precise moment to initiate the movement to stand up. Too early, the wave passes you; too late, it has already passed.

The ideal moment generally comes when you feel the acceleration of the board pushed by the wave. This subtle sensation requires practice to recognize. Some surfers describe it as "the moment the board wants to go by itself".

To help you recognize this perfect moment, watch for these signs:

Incorrect pop-up technique

Even with perfect timing, a flawed pop-up technique can sabotage your take-off. The classic mistake? The "knees first" pop-up, where the beginner gets on knees first before trying to stand. This intermediate approach prevents acquiring the fluid movement needed in surfing.

The effective take-off resembles a push-up motion followed by simultaneous placement of both feet. Your hands push on the board at chest level while your feet position themselves in a quick and coordinated movement.

Foot placement errors also compromise balance. The front foot should be placed slightly offset from the center of the board, while the back foot positions closer to the tail. The ideal stance width is approximately shoulder width or slightly more. 🏄

Behavioral errors in the water

Ignoring priority and safety rules

The ocean is not a playground without rules. Unfortunately, many beginners ignore or underestimate the importance of the surfers' code of conduct, creating dangerous situations or unnecessary tensions in the water.

The fundamental principle to remember: priority goes to the surfer closest to the peak (point where the wave starts breaking) or already committed to the wave. In simple terms, you never "snake" someone already surfing a wave.

Other essential rules include:

• Clear communication: announce your intentions ("I'm going!" or "yours!") to avoid misunderstandings.
• Respect for space: keep a safety distance from other surfers, especially while paddling.
• Board control: never fully release your board in a crowded area - the leash can break.

Learning to recognize potentially dangerous situations is also an essential skill. Lateral currents, rocky areas, or simply a lineup (waiting zone) too crowded for your level are warning signs not to ignore. Choosing the right surfboard suited to your level is also crucial for your progress and safety. Also think about avoiding common mistakes when choosing your surf swimsuit for optimal comfort during your sessions.

Poor choice of spot and conditions

The mistake that can turn a promising session into a traumatic experience? Choosing a spot unsuitable for your level. Beaches perfect for advanced surfers are rarely ideal for learning. Beginners should look for spots with:

• Sandy bottom rather than rocky (safety issue)
• Slow waves that break gradually
• Low crowd to limit stress and risks

Deciphering weather and swell forecasts is often a headache for novices. Yet, a few basics suffice. Wave size is just one criterion among others. The period (time between waves) and swell direction often determine session quality. A long swell (period over 10 seconds) generally produces cleaner, more organized waves, ideal for learning.

Knowing when not to surf is just as crucial as knowing when to go. Strong onshore winds, powerful currents, or conditions beyond your level do not warrant taking risks. Patience pays off in surfing - better to miss a session than have a dangerous experience.🌊

Mental errors that block your progress

Unrealistic expectations and impatience

Surfing has this peculiarity: it looks simple from the beach, but reveals its complexity in the water. Many beginners expect to stand up from the first hours, then get discouraged by learning reality.

Let's be frank: an average surfer typically takes:

These figures vary by individual skills, practice frequency, and conditions encountered. Setting intermediate goals helps avoid frustration. Instead of aiming to "surf like Kelly Slater," focus on "paddling efficiently to the peak" or "standing up on three consecutive waves."

Fear and lack of confidence

Fear is a major obstacle in surfing. Whether apprehension of big waves, sea beds, or simply fear of failure in front of others, this emotion often paralyzes beginners.

To overcome these apprehensions gradually, adopt a step-by-step approach. Start with very easy conditions where you feel confident. Then slightly increase difficulty level with each successful session. This staged progression builds your confidence without ever putting you in traumatic failure situations.

Regular practice makes all the difference. Five 2-hour sessions in a week often bring more progress than ten sessions spread over six months. Body and mind need repetition to integrate surfing's complex movements.

Conclusion

Beginner surfing mistakes fall into three main categories: technical, equipment, and mental. Working on these three aspects simultaneously greatly accelerates progress. Remember particularly the importance of choosing suitable equipment, effective paddling technique, and realistic expectations.

Your action plan for the next few weeks could look like this:

1. Check if your equipment matches your actual level
2. Practice paddling and take-off techniques on land before each session
3. Identify beginner-friendly spots in your area
4. Note your progress after each session to maintain motivation

Never forget surfing's most important aspect: fun. Even the world's best surfers started by taking wipeouts and swallowing water. Learning difficulties are an integral part of the experience and contribute to the sense of accomplishment when you finally succeed.

Persevere, stay humble facing the ocean, and your efforts will be rewarded with unparalleled sensations. Surfing is much more than a sport - it's a school of patience and resilience that will accompany you throughout your life.